Friday, 13 February 2009

Villanueva de Cauche - New Crag


Villanueva de Cauche has recently shot to fame with its inclusion in the latest Rockfax El Chorro climbing guide. This usually quiet crag was busy when I last visited it with British and Norwegian climber taking advantage of its sunny aspect.

The El Chorro guide is a fairly half-hearted effort at documenting the crags around here though as it misses the Upper crag entirely and really is just a copy of David Munillas Andalucia guide - innaccuracies and all.

In an effort to make the guide even more obsolete the locals have been busy developing more routes. The crag above is the latest centre of attention. The long corner line running up the entire cliff is a 5 pitch trad route with bolted belays whilst the red wall to it's right is an amazing climbers playground.

At the moment there are only 8 routes here varying from 6a to 7c+; I've only done 4 of them so far but they are brilliant - 20 - 30m of intricate climbing on great rock up a slightly overhanging wall.

Too much rock and too little time..